Following, the maze from the streets that pass east of the Doge’s Palace, you arrive after 15 minutes in Castello, the former naval district around Arsenale, the Venice shipyard. Low houses, tiny squares, air-drenched Adriatic bath-houses and churches decorated with works by the Tridoretto, Belini and Veroneze schools.

And when you get tired, you will go down to Via Garibaldi and catch a table at Bar Mio for tramezzino with hake and artichoke puree or Serra dei Giardini for a glass of white Ribolla Gialla.

The locals are hiding around the Rialto Bridge in the San Polo district: the Antiche Carampane for crabs and divine slabs with berries, Alle Testiere for fish or the new Al Covo for snacks combined with wines from small producers.

And because nothing in this city is stagnant, not even her cuisine, in the illustrious Il Ridotto, chef Ivano Mestriner – who left the starred Michelin Dal Vero in Treviso – prepares the best spaghetti with safflower ink, sea urchins and chopped pepper.

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